A tough but impressive circular walk in which mountain nature, history and sea views continuously come together.
This makes the route special
The monumental location of Sant Pere de Rodes
The remains of the medieval Santa Creu de Rodes
The ascent to Sant Salvador de Verdera
Views over El Port de la Selva and Cap de Creus
The combination of culture, rugged nature and height difference
To take into account
Approximately 600 meters of ascent in less than ten kilometers
Several steep and stony sections
Little shade on the higher parts
In summer the heat can be tough
Sturdy shoes and plenty of water are necessary
With hard tramuntana, the top can be unpleasant or dangerous
01
Start in La Selva de Mar
From a quiet Catalan village to the mountains
The walk starts in a remarkably friendly way between natural stone houses, small squares and terraces.
We started at the Font de la Pitja around 11am. As soon as the sheltered streets disappeared behind us, it quickly became hot and the slopes of the Serra de Rodes immediately started to gain height.
Font de la Pitja
A shady village spot just before the steep climb into the mountains.
02
The first climb
The red-white markings point upwards
Outside the village the surface quickly becomes stonier. Red-white markings point up between rosemary, low shrubs and olive trees, while at the back the first views of La Selva de Mar appear.
Because we started around 11 a.m., the increasing heat made this section noticeably more difficult.
Walk slowly and take plenty of water with you: the climb is increasingly open in the sun.
The route up
A simple red and white marker points through the rocky landscape.
Advertentie
03
Mediterranean mountain nature
Narrow paths between bushes, rocks and olive trees
The path meanders through a dry and rugged part of Cap de Creus. Loose stones, uneven steps and rock passages require more attention here than the distance suggests.
Some parts offer shelter under trees and tall shrubs, but further up the landscape becomes more open. The route is increasingly taking on the character of a mountain walk.
Rough surface
Loose stones and short, steep passages make good grip important.
04
First view of Sant Pere de Rodes
A monastery against the mountainside
After the climb, Sant Pere de Rodes suddenly appears between the slopes. The complex does not appear to stand in front of the mountain, but to be completely merged with it.
The high towers, massive walls and terraced construction follow the steep ground. Only from a distance does it become clear how exceptional the location is.
Anyone who arrives here on foot will see the monastery gradually grow larger. That makes the approach from La Selva de Mar much more impressive than a short walk from the parking lot.
Monastery in the mountains
Sant Pere de Rodes lies like a stone fortress against the flank of the Serra de Verdera.
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Pray, work and defend
A complete medieval landscape
The monastery, the village of Santa Creu and the castle of Verdera together tell how religion, daily life and military power were connected on this mountain.
05
Sant Pere de Rodes
One of the most impressive monasteries in Catalonia
At the end of the ninth century, a small monastic cell is mentioned here. In the tenth century it grew into an independent Benedictine abbey, supported by the nobility of Empordà.
The church from the tenth and eleventh centuries is notable for its high nave, heavy pillars, double columns and richly decorated capitals. Church, cloisters and living quarters were spread over several mountain terraces.
From the eleventh to the fourteenth century, Sant Pere de Rodes was an important spiritual center and pilgrimage destination. Wars and plunder later led to decline; in 1798 the community left. Restoration and archaeological research subsequently made the complex legible again.
Built in terraces
From above, the church, towers and buildings grouped around the monasteries are clearly distinguishable.
06
Santa Creu de Rodes and Santa Helena
The remains of a disappeared medieval village
The village of Santa Creu de Rodes grew up around a tenth-century church at an altitude of approximately 540 metres. An older watchtower became a bell tower and the roads continued to the nearby monastery.
The village flourished in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries thanks to trade, crafts and pilgrims. From the fifteenth century it became empty; only the church continued to function as the chapel of Santa Helena.
Santa Helena
The church survived after the houses of Santa Creu de Rodes disappeared.
07
The last climb to Sant Salvador
Above the monastery it really gets steep
From the monastery the path continues towards the highest peak of the walk. The rocky passages become steeper and require extra energy on hot or windy days.
This can be the most physically demanding part. The combination of height difference, loose rock and little shade makes a leisurely pace wise.
At the same time, the view grows with almost every step. On the west side, the Empordà plain opens up, while the monastery disappears further and further beneath the route.
Advertentie
View inland
Rocks, olive groves and the vast plain show how much height has been gained.
08
Sant Salvador de Verdera
Ruins at the highest peak of the hike
At the top was a walled military complex. Walls with semicircular and rectangular towers protected the vulnerable northeast side; elsewhere the steep rocks formed the defense.
Inside were the Romanesque church of Sant Salvador and a water reservoir for the garrison. The view over Cap de Creus and the Empordà plain explains the strategic value of this place.
Wall, towers, church and rocks together formed one defense system.
Defense at height
The walled castle complex follows the steep cliffs at the top of Verdera.
09
View over Cap de Creus
Between mountains, bays and the Mediterranean Sea
From the route and the top you look towards El Port de la Selva, the surrounding bays and the rugged coast of Cap de Creus.
The dry, terraced landscape slopes steeply towards the Mediterranean Sea. The blue coves and dark rocks form a stark contrast to the golden brown slopes. In the photo, a plume of smoke is also visible towards Llançà.
On the other side extends the plain of Empordà. This makes the top feel like a watershed between the private coast and the much wider interior.
Direction Llançà
A clear plume of smoke could be seen from the mountain above the coast towards Llançà.
10
Descend with a view of the monastery
Sant Pere de Rodes from a new perspective
After the top, a descent begins over loose, sometimes dusty stones. Along the way, the sight lines of the monastery constantly change and the terraces and towers become clearly visible from above.
Lower down, the slopes become greener and the shelter around La Selva de Mar returns.
A new perspective
During the descent, the entire monastery complex lies deep beneath the mountain path.
11
Back in La Selva de Mar
From the mountain top back to the village square
After the open mountain world, the return to the quiet village feels almost abrupt.
Natural stone facades, shade and a terrace form a pleasant ending. The 9.6 kilometers seems modest, but the terrain and approximately 600 meters of ascent and descent make this a difficult circular walk.
Reached the end point
Back in La Selva de Mar after 9.6 kilometers and about 600 meters of ascent and descent.
Frequently asked questions
Walking at Sant Pere de Rodes
Is the walk suitable for children?
Only for children who are used to long, steep mountain trails and walking safely over rocky surfaces. Take heat, wind and cliffs into account.
Good hiking shoes are required
Yes. Shoes with sturdy soles and a lot of grip are strongly recommended for the steep and stony parts.
Can you walk the walk in summer
That is possible, but start early, avoid the hottest hours and take plenty of water with you. In extreme heat, choose another day.
Are there catering options along the way?
There are catering facilities in La Selva de Mar. Facilities may be available at Sant Pere de Rodes, but please check current opening times in advance.
You can park at Sant Pere de Rodes
There is an access road to the monumental complex with parking options in the area. Check the current accessibility and parking rules in advance.
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La Selva de Mar · Cap de Creus · Catalonia
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